Chicago Acting Headshots
One of my favorite areas of photography is head shots and portrait photos – I love bringing out the best in people on film (or in digital, as is usually the case). Last weekend I did some actors head shots for Zach, who is active in local Chicago theater, a selection of which are below.
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
If you’re looking for head shots in Chicago, I would love to work with you. Take a look at my packages page or contact me for a free consultation.
Chicago Photography
We are officially well and deep into the winter season here in Chicago, which means I am mostly back indoors. Recently I had the opportunity to turn out some pictures at Architectural Artifacts, an antique and salvage mecca in Ravenswood. It was warm and lovely and a trial of mixed lighting; objects lit on one side by skylight and the other by fluorescents present a particular challenge. I always prefer to adjust settings during a shoot rather than go back and edit in post; since I shoot 98% manually to begin with, I will flip between my own color presets and balances with impunity. All but two of the images in the gallery below are taken from the raw files. Start planning your Chicago salvage trip…now!
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
Photographing Detroit
This gallery contains 10 photos.
I spent the past few days photographing the one and only Motor City – Detroit, that is. All the news articles & such about it being a war zone? Pretty much true. I’ve been through some rough areas – in Philadelphia and Chicago particularly – and Detroit just knocked me over. What’s astounding about it [...]
Event Photography
This gallery contains 21 photos.
Recently I was invited to do event photography for the 2011 SunnyU Performing Arts Group Dance Showcase, an amazing event held in Lake Zurich, IL. It was clear that the performers and support teams put all of their effort into putting on a meaningful and well run show, and they succeeded! I thought I would [...]
Upcoming Gallery Show
I’m excited to announce that UnwindRewind Photography will be exhibited in an upcoming gallery show, Urban Visions, at the Norris Gallery in St. Charles IL. The show runs from January 14 through February 25. I will have four pieces on show. The Norris offers free admission and parking, so if you are in the area, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon.
Here’s a peek at one of the UnwindRewind works that will be in the gallery!
Giveaway!
Just in time for the holidays, UnwindRewind is giving away one 8×10 art print, custom framed from my Etsy shop. You pick the print, we’ll talk over the options and I ship it to you free…if you win, that is, and you can’t win if you don’t enter!
The Giveaway is being hosted by the lovely and multi-talented Lex of WhattheCraft at WhattheCraft.com. There are multiple ways to enter and you can have multiple entries! So go ahead and enter, but make sure you comment on the Giveaway post at WhattheCraft.com with your entry method(s) for it to be counted!
On Facebook:
Please include your Facebook name in your comment
- “LIKE” UnwindRewind on Facebook
- “LIKE” WhatTheCraft on Facebook
- “LIKE” SmarmyClothes on Facebook
- Post a Facebook status update with a link to this giveaway
- Post a Facebook update with a link to your favorite item from UnwindRewind
On Twitter:
Please include your Twitter name in your comment
- Follow WhatTheCraft on Twitter
- Follow SmarmyClothes on Twitter
- Retweet this tweet from your Twitter
- Tweet with a link to your favorite item from UnwindRewind
Other Ways:
- Follow the UnwindRewind Blog
- Follow SmarmyClothes on Tumblr – include your Tumblr username in your comment
- Blog about this giveaway and/or aboutUnwindRewind- include a link to the post in your comment
- Subscribe to my YouTube channel – include your YouTube username in your comment
Good luck!
The Lytro Living Camera
I read of it back in the spring. It is called the Lytro camera, capturing the light in a shot from near to far (though a point and shoot can do that), but the hook is that you focus after the shot is taken – take your picture and then later switch between near and far focus. Having the option to change my mind later? That would be cool. I got on the mailing list and signed up to reserve one.
Over the summer, they uploaded pictures to their website and let us try them out for size, re-focusing the picture from near to far. If I had to estimate, you can focus at about 18mm or 55mm. No closer, no further, no middle range, and definitely not to infinity. This dampened my enthusiasm somewhat, along with the fact that even figuring that the pictures were web quality they seemed rather low-res.
Finally, mid-October I received the e-mail to be the first! and use my reservation. I clicked the link and the first thing I saw was what my color choices for the body were. I thought, oh boy, I’m not going to want this.
I will preface the following by saying I have not touched a Lytro yet; they don’t ship until early 2012. But these are my impressions. It is unarguably a point and shoot camera with limited zoom (8x optical, no digital), about the size and shape of a box of Pocky sticks. The camera relies on software (Mac only until an unspecified later date) to re-focus the images. Infinity focus is out of the question on this first model. The images that the camera takes are a made up new format - “light field picture files” or .lfp, only usable in the Lytro software, which does not enable photo editing – no adjusting white balance or adding filters like sepia or black and white. While .lfp files can be converted in JPEGs, they are tiny – about a megapixel, which is not print quality, and I doubt the lab I use for making prints is going to pick up the .lfp format anytime soon.
The overall verdict I am giving the Lytro is cool idea, overpriced toy. The 8GB cameras cost $400, or you can double that to 16GB for $500. Or, you can buy an iPhone, which takes surprisingly great pictures and has nearly limitless editing options. Or, consider the following options:
$249 Revisit film photography with the Diana Deluxe Kit from Lomography. www.usa.shop.lomography.com
$250 Convert your older digital camera to infrared spectrum. www.shop.lifepixel.com
$388 Order two outrageous backdrops from www.Badassbackdrops.com
$434 Practice glamour photography with the Tiffen Hollywood FX Classic Filter Kit. www.adorama.com/TF82CK
$470 Pick up a true 1:1 macro lens for your Canon DSLR with the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 www.usa.canon.com
What would you do?
Fall Portrait Photography Tips
We’ve got one or two good weekends of fall shooting left here in Northern Illinois, and I hope you do too where you are! To cap off the Fall Photography Tips for this year, let’s take a look at basic outdoor portrait photography.
Portrait photography can be difficult, especially when shooting outdoors. So many variables are out of our control – the direction of the sun, the wind, the people walking through the background of your picture…well, for the patient or well prepared photographer, there are plenty of opportunities and workarounds.
The first thing to always consider is the person you’re photographing. If you’re planning on taking someone outdoors, make sure they are prepared for the plan. If you tell your subject to dress cute and she wears three inch heels, she isn’t going to be comfortable hiking to the spot you scouted in the woods! Talk over beforehand what you’d like to do and what clothing you have in mind. Remember clothing can always be changed up and layers removed once you get there.
The second thing to think about is the weather. Plenty of times I’ve taken risks and been either soaked or rewarded – but I usually only do this on my own, because I don’t typically mind getting soaked. Your model might. Watch the weather beginning a few days beforehand and plan accordingly. Note that a day that is partly to mostly cloudy is actually better for outdoor portraits than a sunny day, as clouds diffuse the light making for great (and predictable) soft, even lighting.
So, your model is prepared and the weather held up – perfect. You’re probably out in the early to mid morning or mid to late afternoon, right? Hopefully! Direct overhead lighting whether indoors or out is never kind to portrait photography. Think about the contours of your face – a person’s eyebrows, cheekbones, nose and jaw have a higher relief, and overhead lighting will bring out all the imperfections of these in addition to over-lighting that can cause wash out, unintended accentuation or shininess, and cast the rest of the face into shadow (think under-eye bags). Ouch. Avoid! There’s a reason even stage lighting at plays and concerts tends to be highly angled.
No matter what time of day you’re shooting, you may want to consider using a reflector disk. Reflector disks are highly portable and come in a variety of sizes, typically oval or circular. By placing them close to your model and at angles to the sun you can bounce light onto your model to greatly reduce unflattering shadows. There are a few “colors” available, the most common being silver, white, and gold. In the fall I’m mostly using gold, because it gives very warm, even light that’s a great match up to the fall backgrounds. Of course, you don’t have to choose only one – most reflectors come with two sides, and there are also 5- or 6- in ones, that unzip to reveal the multiple surfaces. Adorama and Amazon are great places to pick one up.
Although you may have a reflector to help counterattack any unflattering shadows, still pay attention to the positioning of your model. In many cases, positioning the model in partial to full shade will even out tones and eliminate hard shadow and most cases of the squints. If that isn’t possible or likely, it is best to avoid having your subject with their back to the sun unless you have brought a studio of lights with you, or intend a very dramatic picture, because by having the subject’s back to the sun the subject’s face will be underexposed in relation to the rest of the picture. You may also incur unintended lens flare. Likewise, having your subject facing the sun will cause an overexposed face (probably also squinting) and an underexposed background. Shooting at 90 degree angles to the sun is a good rule of thumb, especially for beginners.
I’d love to see your shots if you’re willing to share! Just send me an e-mail at unwind_rewind (at) yahoo [dot] com. If there’s any interest, it’d be great to put up a slideshow of what everyone’s been shooting this fall.
Fall Photography Tips II
A week since the last post and already fall is in full swing! So you can get on to your weekend of shooting (and so can I!) let’s jump right in where we left off.
Color
As I mentioned in my previous post, black and white is not a bad idea to try in the fall – it’s different from what a lot of people are doing, and the range of shades and lighting conditions can really dial in the contrast that makes a great photo. But to catch the colors, there’s a few things to try.
Filters – There are two types of filters: in-camera, where the camera’s settings add filter effects for you, and lens filters, which actually attach to the end of your lens. Every camera is going to have different in-camera options, but Canon and Nikon digital users should spend a moment on their manufacturer’s website – there are additional in-camera filters you can download to your equipment. Most color corrections on DSLRs are done these days either with the white balance in-camera or Photoshop. Not that I don’t use these but I still like to play with filters, and there’s thousands of them, but let’s run down some basic ones that are good for fall.
Circular Polarizing Filter – or CPL. Will reduce glare and/or reflection, deepen blue skies, and add contrast to clouds. Good for shots of darker trees against sky. Necessary as it’s impossible to reproduce its effects with Photoshop.
UV Filter – Filters out ultraviolet rays for less haze and greater contrast. Can be used in any lighting situation as a lens protector. Good on any shots, but less necessary on newer or higher end cameras.
Red Filters – Best used for pictures involving sky, especially with clouds; otherwise, not fantastic for the average fall photographer.
Yellow Filter – For more natural, even tones.
Orange Filter – If you buy one filter for fall photography, orange might be your best pick. It increases the contrast between red and yellow tones.
Point and shooters fret not, as you can also add filters to your lens with magnetic snap-ons. Do a Google search and pick one you like.
If you don’t want to spend the money on filters, do you have sunglasses? It’s an interesting trick to put the sunglasses in front of your camera lens. Depending on the type of light your sunglasses filter you can get some extremely vibrant photographs out of it. Just be sure the glasses are clean and not scratched. You may want to use a tripod or a helper to attempt this too since it’s a bit of a juggle!
Fall Photography Tips
Here in Northern Illinois the fall colors are beginning to show. The next two weeks will be a fantastic time for autumn photography, so I thought I’d share a few tips. Let’s start with basics and tricks for full to partial auto mode on DSLRS or point and shoot cameras.
Lighting
There’s never a bad time to photograph autumn leaves, but there are two fantastic times to try. The first is in the golden hour – either the first hour after dawn or the last hour before sunset. The sun’s low angle in the sky casts more amber tones at these times of day, which is just perfect for emphasizing yellow and orange hues in autumn leaves, and the longer shadows can provide lovely contrast. Some photographers call it the golden half-hour, but at this time of the year it’s really a golden two hours in practice.
The second fantastic time is when it’s cloudy outside. It may sound counter intuitive, but darker skies give contrast to yellow leaves especially, and a moodier tone to photographs. Cloudy skies at any time of year also diffuse the light so that all tones are warmer and more even. You can bump up this effect by choosing the “Cloudy” light balance on your camera, or even create it a little by using the “Cloudy” setting in daylight.
Camera Setting
There are a few pre-sets to try at this time of year.
Landscape – Use for wide views inside and outside the forest. The camera’s pre-sets have Landscape adjusted to your manufacturer’s idea of the ideal white balance, contrast and saturation/hue for landscapes in this setting.
Monochrome or B&W – Autumn is a fantastic time for monochrome photography. Appropriate contrast between light and shadow is one of the most important principles of monochrome picture making, and autumn practically does that for you!
Portrait – The portrait pre-set diffuses light, decreases contrast and gives an overall softer tone. If your camera does not also have a “macro” setting or the ability to change aperture (or you aren’t ready), a trick is to try using Portrait to have a foreground in focus and a background blurry. Portrait can be a good setting for autumn when it is sunny outside, especially right after the rain.
Framing the Shot
There is absolutely no wrong way to do autumn photography – close up, far away, medium distance, one tree or many – they can all look good. The trick is to zone in on a point of focus. How do you know if your picture has a point of focus? Preview it on your viewfinder or screen. Are your eyes drawn to the center or one area of the photograph in particular, or do they wander all over the frame? If your eyes are tempted to dart all over the image, you do not have a point of focus. So how do you achieve that? Try picking one thing that really catches you about the landscape you are looking at and decide how to make that the “center of attention”. It may be as simple as putting it in the center of the photograph. Or else you can try shooting from below (get down on your knees, lay on your side – dress appropriately because that’s really key for autumn hiking!). Try zooming in tighter on the subject if there are other distracting elements – a river or a light pole, for instance. Experiment, which is also known as practice!
Check back for more tips soon, or better yet, subscribe to this website and get posts right to your e-mail inbox – just click the “Follow” tab at the lower right. You can also use the “Ask a Photographer” tab at the top for questions.





Most Recent Comments